BUILD Plywood case for C2550d4i 6-HDD build

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beemaster

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From the beginning of 2014 I got a FreeNAS sickness.
I wanted to build a small home server where I can store my files securely.
Finally I decided on configuration:

- ASRock C2550D4I
- 2 x 8GB Kingston KVR16E11/8
- 6 x 3TB WD Red

I wanted a custom case. Because if you search for a Mini-ITX 6-HDD case you wouldn't find many.
Even if you do there are still some unnecessary things such as:
- usb ports, 3.5" audio
- led lights
- buttons

For my FreeNAS server I don't need any of these. Plus I want it to be quiet and have good ventilation.
And I have some spare time so here it goes:

I designed the shape of the case in OpenSCAD because I didn't want to screw up with dimensions.
This is open source editor where you describe 3d model with simple programming language:
Code:
color("brown")
  cube(size = [200, 200, 30]);

This will display a brown box with width=200, height=200 and depth=30. Quite simple, right?

The basic shape of the case was like this:
5SMvvIB.png

The top and the bottom plate will have ventilation holes, but I didn't draw them for simplicity.
I only learned how to create boxes with OpenSCAD. Sorry :)

Then I added motherboard (purple box), another plate to mount the fan (red) and the fan itself (brown)
XowjcGH.png
SgOCZTZ.png
waIS8xk.png

The fan is HUGE 200mm Cooler Master MegaFlow.
It will suck air from the bottom part of the case and blow it up - right on the motherboard.

Then goes PSU. For this case I decided to go with Seasonic SS-350TGW. It is wonderful PSU:
- small size - 175*85*63.5 mm (6.9"*3.3"*2.5")
- under half load the fan won't spin. For this build the PSU is literally fanless
(green box)
5BCXUqq.png

Now the main part - HDDs. They are secured with 2 plywood plates.
The HDDs are located vertically so air can pass in between.
The holding plywood plates will have ventilation holes for this.
TARxeVf.png
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The whole HDD block should slide in and out in case something happens with disks.
Single disk removal is not possible. I hope I will not have issues with them too often.
But when I do, I just need to open the case door, disconnect all HDD cables, slide HDDs out,
unscrew particular disk, take new one, screw, slide back in, connect all cables. Simple :)

Finally the closing door:
uZuws98.png


After a while I went to a store and ordered a birch plywood sheet 1525 x 1525 mm.
Since I knew the dimensions I used the in-store service to precisely cut it.

MdHNzc9.jpg


Then I made ventilation holes with fretsaw and drilled mounting holes:
DIv61yv.jpg


After this I covered all parts with anti-flame liquid 3 times. Just in case.
Even if my hardware blows I don't want my house to get on fire.
Then I painted everything in white (because I love white)
kxbC7zo.jpg


Mounted motherboard on the top plate:
UzDiaBo.jpg
yDAL55k.jpg


Assembling continues:
UUvest0.jpg
BGE4dVc.jpg

JZCOCnd.jpg
VzFULmu.jpg


HDD "rack" :)
Ocu1E95.jpg
UfUN4Pm.jpg

9etTSOD.jpg


Finally put everything together.
bK1XZjv.jpg


I used some sound dampening to compensate HDD noise and make slide in - slide out softer.
Also I glued small dust filter from light chiffon fabric and bicycle spokes.
sRpu2Pm.jpg


Ready to install FreeNAS :)
nbnr0QJ.jpg
pZom4BP.jpg
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Ventilation is quite nice. In my apartment the temperature is 26-28 C.
Disk temperature is 34 C at idle, 37 C during scrub.
CPU temperature is 38 C at idle, 45 C during scrub.

Case fan noise is non existent. Fan is connected via 50Ω resistor adapter that I had from another Noctua
and spins at lower speed. I can hear HDD noise though. Sound dampening did it's job but no much.

This is it. I won't bother you with software part - everything runs great and I am happy.
Good luck and see your custom case next!
 
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Pharfar

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Jan 6, 2013
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That case is really nice. Usually when ppl do plywood builds, they end up looking B A D. I like your build :smile: And hi-5 on those HDD temps (low C = long life)
 

xcom

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Looks awesome good job.

Just curious how are the temps on that custom case?

Wood does not dissipate heat and tends to contain it.
 
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scott55

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Nice job! What hardware attached the drives? Stock screws wouldn't be long enough.
 

cyberjock

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You should post your parts list and your design for others. That's actually pretty cool!
 

AlainD

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Hi

I always thought that the metal in computercases had also a EM shield effect, aka keeps radiation in and out.
 

panz

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Very nice! My question is: all electronic equipment needs properly grounding. How did you accomplish that?
 

beemaster

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Messages
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Nice job! What hardware attached the drives? Stock screws wouldn't be long enough.
I used M3 screws which are 15mm long. M3 is a metric system size. It is a bit smaller than 6-32 screw holes on HDD,
but they hold quite well, because there are 3 of them and positioning is not 100% accurate.
Here's a photo of M3 screw that I used, smaller M3 screw used on CD-ROM/SSD and 6-32 screw for HDD:
26.jpg


I always thought that the metal in computercases had also a EM shield effect, aka keeps radiation in and out.
I don't know. I never heard anyone had real damage from PC radiation. Bug I have seen tons of custom wooden/plastic/glass cases. Shouldn't be an issue I hope.
Very nice! My question is: all electronic equipment needs properly grounding. How did you accomplish that?
I didn't. I do not plan to certify my case :) Again if you look on the internet there are plenty of wooden modded cases. No grounding needed.
 

AlainD

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...
I don't know. I never heard anyone had real damage from PC radiation. Bug I have seen tons of custom wooden/plastic/glass cases. Shouldn't be an issue I hope.

I didn't. I do not plan to certify my case :) Again if you look on the internet there are plenty of wooden modded cases. No grounding needed.
...
Hi
I was thinking of radiation or interference that's impacting you're build, not the other way around.

Did you though of adding a little bit damping (rubber) between the wood and the drives?

BTW. I'm always scared from openings on top of a case, I "see" the coffee going into it ;-) Nice build BTW, neat finish.
 

beemaster

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You should post your parts list and your design for others. That's actually pretty cool!
This is program file with dimensions. It can be opened in OpenSCAD if someone wants to play around.
If there are any questions I will gladly help.

Did you though of adding a little bit damping (rubber) between the wood and the drives?
I thought of it but it was too late :) And even if I do this the vibration will go through screws.
It would be great to use something like Noctua rubber mounts
27.jpg



BTW. I'm always scared from openings on top of a case, I "see" the coffee going into it ;-) Nice build BTW, neat finish.
:) I'm scared too. There are some flowers in water nearby. I try to be careful.

Thank you guys for positive comments!
 

AlainD

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Apr 7, 2013
Messages
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...


I thought of it but it was too late :) And even if I do this the vibration will go through screws.
It would be great to use something like Noctua rubber mounts
27.jpg


...

If you add damping (aka rubber) between the HDD and wood and between the screwhead and the wood (aka on the other side) and you're holes are big enough, this could work and avoid vibration through the screws.
 

SwampRabbit

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Those Noctua rubber mounts are nice, but a pain because they are hard to use with certain screw openings, got a small box full of them.

You could always try those rubber dampening spacers that come with some fans, or something similar.

Always room for improvement, but you have a great concept started!
 

cyberjock

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The metal cages you are talking about that block EM radiation are called "faraday cage" or "faraday shield".

Yes, ideally you should have a server that is properly grounded, protects your hardware in a full 360 degree fashion, doesn't have plastic sides (plastic doesn't conduct electricity), etc. Your entire server chassis should be grounded through your PSU's grounded plug.

Yes, it can be a big deal, and it can be a non-event. Look at the tons of computers around the world that run without the full force of protection. There are some environments where a faraday cage is a big deal (especially in places that have higher EM radiation such as high altitudes and such).

Ideally, if reliability is a concern your computer should be in a metal chassis that is closed tight at all times to minimize EM radiation from causing problems.
 

panz

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Hey folks, I didn't mean any special ISS equipment, protected from cosmic radiation or EMI from Venus ;) I was simply asking if a motherboard and its peripherals should be accurately grounded and how to accomplish this in a wood made case :)
 

scott55

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terminal.jpg
Motherboards are grounded though the mounting holes I believe. Assuming that the power supply housing is grounded a wire from one of the mounting screws to the PS housing should do it. The same could be done for the drives
 
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berlin

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Jul 1, 2014
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I thought the common pins on the motherboard connector from the power supply were grounded. Same would go for the hard drives. Easy enough to check with a multimeter. Maybe I'm confusing motherboards with other electronics, but for a lot of boards the mounting holes are isolated from ground to prevent ground loops. You want one common reference from the supply that is properly grounded.
 

scott55

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I thought the common pins on the motherboard connector from the power supply were grounded. Same would go for the hard drives. Easy enough to check with a multimeter. Maybe I'm confusing motherboards with other electronics, but for a lot of boards the mounting holes are isolated from ground to prevent ground loops. You want one common reference from the supply that is properly grounded.

You are probably right. It would be better electronics to use a dedicated ground wire. If so, bootleg grounds as I have described could induce ground loops which would be bad.
 
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