Build Advice - Cooling and Power

wallboston

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I'm new to this forum and new to TrueNAS. Additionally, this is my first server build but I have built high-performance PCs. I've spec'd out this system knowing it's complete overkill for my use but I'm OK with that. I need advice on whether the power supply and cooling will be adequate.

This system will have 1-3 simultaneous, occasional daily users. It will serve up mostly small files and mid-sized photos. It will store a library of larger software and music files that will rarely be accessed. Initially, I do not intend to use it as a media server, but I may install Plex or other add-ins over time if I find them useful.

I am considering:

Case and PSU: Supermicro SuperChassis 721TQ-350B2
mini-ITX form factor​
1x 12cm rear exhaust fan​
4x 3.5" hot-swap SATA drive bay​
350W 80+ gold power supply​
Motherboard: Supermicro X11SCL-IF mini-ITX
CPU: Intel Xeon E-2234
RAM: 64GB in 2x32 Samsung M391A4G43MB1-CTD ECC DDR4 2666MHz modules
Boot Drive: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (repurposed from another system I have.)
Storage Drives: 4x4TB 3.5" WD Pro
Pool Config: Z2

Will the power supply and case cooling system be adequate, knowing that I will almost never be stressing out this CPU for any but the most brief periods of time?

Thank you for any advice you can offer.
 

NugentS

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That PSU seems a bit light for the system in my view
 

wallboston

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The CPU is rated 71W TDP and the drives apparently max out when reading/writing full tilt at about 7W or let's say another 30W total, worst case. I don't know how to find how much power the MB, RAM, fans etc. use but let's say 15W. Total: 115W + let's say a cushion of 30% equals about 150W max draw against a 350W supply running efficiently at 80% so we don't want to draw more than about 280W. I don't know if this is the right way to look at this, but I think the power might be OK.

I'm a bit more worried about heat. The case will sit on an open desktop in an air-conditioned room with generally free air flow on three sides. Still not sure how to judge whether the case cooling is adequate. The only thing I know for sure is the MB is rated for CPUs up to 95W TDP and the Xeon E-2234 is rated 71W TDP but that doesn't account for all the other heat sources. Any thoughts on thermals?
 

NugentS

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Don't forget that the PSU has different rails. It may have enough total power, but not enough power on a specific rail.
Also spinup takes rather more power.

Still seems weak to me
 

wallboston

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Thank you, great points. I'll look into them closely.

Anyone have any opinion on thermals?
 

Davvo

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This might be helpful.
 

joeschmuck

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Did you read the case manual? Well I did and it is a generic manual for the lowest model, only addressing a 250 watt bronze power supply capable of supporting an 87 watt TDP CPU. So the 350 watt gold power supply should have no issues supporting it. Also it's a 1U power supply, that adds a little complexity to the issue of replacing it.

Since the case is shipped with this power supply from Supermicro, the power supply for drive power is more than likely sufficient. The cooling should be sufficient too, but you will need to test to find out if the system is stable, this will show power supply weaknesses.

You will find out both answers when you conduct the correct Burn-In Testing. Start a SMART hard drive Extended Test on each hard drive to verify the hard drives are good and to pull current from the power supply and to heat up the drives, then run Prime95 for 24 hours to check the CPU, Motherboard, and RAM have no errors means which also indicates the power supply is good. Run Memtest86+ for at least 24 hours or longer and no errors means the CPU, Motherboard, and RAM are good and the power supply is good. You need to run all these tests. And you need all your drives plugged in as well so the normal power draw is occurring.

Check the SMART data on each hard drive for the maximum drive temperature, ideally you want to stay below 45C when the drive is very active, I personally want to stay below 42C when active. Idle temps would be several C below that.

One last comment, this is purely subjective but a few hours after Prime95 test has been running, feel the air temperature coming out of the power supply. If it's really warm then it's probably working too hard. As I said, very subjective. I have no idea what the air temp upper limit would be but if my power supply feels too warm, I investigate what is going on. Normally I find that the fan is failing but that wouldn't be the case for you. If you are new to computers then you may not have a good idea on what is acceptable and what is not. You could post the actual air temp coming out if it's a concern.

Hope this helps.
 

wallboston

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Great advice, thank you. I did read the case manual and realized that Supermicro has updated this case with a 350W supply; the manual is out of date. I'm glad to hear you think the cooling may be adequate. I read some really detailed advice on testing and burn-in in these forums but I like your succinct advice and will follow it. But I was hoping to get a better handle on the adequacy of this case's thermals before assembling the system. I liked this case because I have limited space and no need for more than four drives. Any more thoughts on cooling anyone?
 

joeschmuck

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Any more thoughts on cooling anyone?
You asked for it...

The only temperature issue you might possibly have is for the WD Red Pro 4TB hard drives, they are all 7200 RPM and generate some heat when not idle. These drive are certified to run at a maximum of 65C without voiding the warranty. Keep in mind that no one wants to run the hard drives at those temperatures. The possible option for you here is to use the WD Red Plus WD40EFZX drives which are 5400 RPM and draw less power which means less heat. The real difference otherwise between these two drives is the warranty length, 3 years vs. 5 years. Most hard drives will last 5 years regardless or they suffer from infant mortality (early death).

1. Due to your use case I highly recommend you use the WD40EFXZ drives vice the WD Red Pro's. This will make a difference on power draw and heat generated. So many people put four 7200 RPM drives together and are shocked with the heat created. They assume all will be fine, the drives were designed to work and they will just let them cook. It doesn't sound like you are one of those people since you are conserned about airflow and heat.

So let's say that you buy this system and everything works great except the hard drive temps are 55C, well you can drop the temps several C by doing a few things and I will list them. Keep in mind that I do not have the case you are purchasing and am using photos provided on a Google search.

2. Cover up any holes that allow air intake to force more air over the drives.
--- So this one is easy however while looking at the photos on the internet of this case, the only air intake I can see is the hole below the drive bays on the front of the case. This hole is to allow cool air in to flow across the motherboard. With this said, I'd first find out what the motherboard temps are and then only add some tape across half of the hole (find the elevation of the motherboard), if the board is above the hole then tape off the area below the board to force airflow across the motherboard upper components. But I didn't see anything else to cover up unless there are some holes on the bottom of the case. Also, a few small holes elsewhere are not a big deal, it's the larger openings that you should focus on.

3. Replace the Rear Exhaust Fan.
--- Now this is a very easy upgrade you can make. Buy a replacement High Air Flow and preferably quiet fan. You might pay up to $30 USD for a high quality fan but remember, it's cooling your system and on this case, it's the only fan. I suggest you do your research on fans looking for CFM, RPM, dBA. CFM high, RPM Low, dBA Low. I would buy something like the be quiet Silent Wings 4 fan, but seriously you should do some research, you would be surprised what you will find. If it's too cheap, don't buy it.

4. Exhaust Fan Case Modification.
--- The case manufacturers are cheap these days and the fan grill is a set of punched holes in the case metal, this is very inefficient. I myself will modify the case once and only after I know the case will work for me. In your case you have an integrated power supply so you need to make sure the case works well. I suspect that you would not make this modification until after you feel the case is not cooling well. But the steps I'd do are as follows. You will need to buy an appropriate wire fan grill for the fan, could be as low as $5 USD.
-- a. Remove everything from the case electronic. The motherboard, the power supply, the hard drive cages. This is going to depend on how much you prep the case for using a Dremel tool to cut metal and keep any metal debris out of the case. Clean-up is very important.
-- b. Use a marker to draw out exactly what you intend to cut out. You want to remove all the metal that covers the inside area of the fan. Do not go crazy and cut out everything at once unless you are certain you are not cutting it too large. You can't really add back metal unless you bolt back on a metal plate but that is a lot more work, but possible if needed.
-- c. Dry fit the fan and grill before cutting, make sure the marked up cutout looks right.
-- d. Wearing safety goggles (keep your eyes safe), Cut the metal. Clean up as you go. A vacuum works wonders.
-- e. Deburr the metal edges. This means make the edges as smooth as possible. Why? Because sharp edges cut human skin but more importantly they grab dust and then all that dust collects on those sharp edges. And lastly, it's pride is doing a good job.
-- f. Clean it all again, blow it our with compressed air if you have any.
-- g. Install the new fan and grill (the grill goes on the outside of the case, NOT the inside).

There are other things you could do to manipulate air flow within the case but just reach out if you do have problems keeping things cool and we can discuss it. If case modification like this are not your thing, well that is okay.

Seriously, buy the slower spinning drives. The will not impact your performance for the use case you described. If you were a data center then that is a different story.
 

wallboston

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I am considering the Red Pros because the data transfer rate is so much greater than the Red Plus (217MB/sec v 180MB/sec). I'm no engineer but it looked like the case PSU would deliver adequate power for the Pros. The case spec lists output as "+12V Max: 28A / Min: 0.1A" If I'm reading it right, the Pro spec sheet (below) lists peak power consumption as 1.79A at 12V. So it seems four drives would peak at 7.16A, well within the 28A max output of the PSU. Am I missing something here?

Red Pro Specs.jpg


I love the idea of upgrading the case fan on the initial build. I'll research fans now. Also, mod'ing the case later on to add an additional fan is well within my wheelhouse. Great idea, thank you.

I really need to know if I'm reading these power numbers correctly.
 

wallboston

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...I should acknowledge the important point that the Red Plus heat output has to be a lot less than the Red Pros given the difference in average read/write power consumption: 7.2W for the Pros and 4.7W for the Plus. That's 53% more power draw for the Pros! Must be lots more heat too. Plus would definitely keep things cooler.
 

Ericloewe

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Well, count on 3A per disk, but it should be perfectly alright. As long as you don't do something crazy like sticking a 300W CPU in that tiny chassis.
 

joeschmuck

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I am considering the Red Pros because the data transfer rate is so much greater than the Red Plus (217MB/sec v 180MB/sec).
Real World this will not be perceivable to you unless you are doing a lot (I mean a lot) of large file transfers. Small files will not see the benefit.

So it seems four drives would peak at 7.16A, well within the 28A max output of the PSU. Am I missing something here?
I was answering a heat related question, not power supply capability, I already said the power supply should be fine for the drives you selected.

I should acknowledge the important point that the Red Plus heat output has to be a lot less than the Red Pros given the difference in average read/write power consumption: 7.2W for the Pros and 4.7W for the Plus. That's 53% more power draw for the Pros! Must be lots more heat too. Plus would definitely keep things cooler.
Exactly my point. Slower drives draw less power (generally) and produce less heat. Again, answering your cooling question.

Also, mod'ing the case later on to add an additional fan is well within my wheelhouse.
I wasn't suggesting adding an additional fan but rather removing the air blocking punched metal grill and install a wire grill which will let through a lot more unrestricted airflow. But if the case has space for an additional fan, I'd make sure you are factoring in proper air flow across the components. The motherboard needs airflow too. And you would need to make it also an exhaust fan, not an intake fan as that will kill any airflow across the hard drives. Be mindful of what you are doing is all I'm saying.
 

wallboston

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I see what you mean...but you did get me thinking of possibly hanging an exhaust fan on the outside of the side of the case by cutting a hole in the side of the case--possible, probably, but maybe a bit extreme.

I had forgotten that I had upgraded a case fan on my old NAS to a Noctua fan some years ago so I think I will start with that simple suggestion before tearing screens and case walls apart.
 

joeschmuck

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While it's not a bad idea to order a new fan right away, but you should at least evaluate the fan that comes with the case. It actually might be good. However since it's the only fan for airflow, I'd still replace it eventually with the fan I suggested. A 300,000 hour runtime is a long time.
 
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