SOLVED ASRock Rack C2750D4I :: CPU temperature issue

Marcet

Contributor
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May 31, 2013
Messages
193
Put your left fan back, there is a significant 6°C difference.
But you should also check temps at heavy load during a stress test.
 

rich110

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May 31, 2015
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7
I know this thread is pretty old, but I thought I'd share this with all the long-suffering C2750D4I users who have managed to survive the watchdog bug and high temps.

Disclaimer up front - I am offering the following purely with the view of information sharing and take no responsiblility for any harm that may occur to people systems as a result.

I have long monitored my C2750D4I CPU temps and worried about how hot it gets. I am fortunate to have access to a 3D printer and decided to design and print a fan mount that fits over the CPU heatsink and allows a 90mm cooling fan to be mounted. I've decided to share the STL file of the part for anyone else who has access to a 3D printer and wants to build it as well.

The design of the part was driven by the size and shape of my case (Silverstone DS380) - which is why the fan is offset and the overall profile of the mount is quite low. I have designed cutouts to insert M4 nuts (to take the M4 bolts that lock the mount onto the heatsink). To fit the nuts into place, simple screw the nuts onto a very end of a threaded bolt, heat with a lighter or candle (while holding the other end with pliers) and gently push the nut onto the part cutout. This forms a very nice snug fit. Then you just need to fit a 90mm fan to one end and bolt the other end onto the heatsink.

I've been really impressed with the results. Prior to fitting the adaptor, my CPU temps were 40oC at idle and 60oC under load (generated by transcoding a x265 HVEC file in emby). After fitting the fan these temps droped to 28oC and 41oC respectively (using exactly the same benchmarks).

Attached are some photos of the finished part and the STL file (in a zip) for printing.

Please don't ask me to print the part on someone else's behalf as I don't have the time or resources, but otherwise feel free to use it.

Cheers, Rich
 

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Marcet

Contributor
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
193
I know this thread is pretty old, but I thought I'd share this with all the long-suffering C2750D4I users who have managed to survive the watchdog bug and high temps.

Disclaimer up front - I am offering the following purely with the view of information sharing and take no responsiblility for any harm that may occur to people systems as a result.

I have long monitored my C2750D4I CPU temps and worried about how hot it gets. I am fortunate to have access to a 3D printer and decided to design and print a fan mount that fits over the CPU heatsink and allows a 90mm cooling fan to be mounted. I've decided to share the STL file of the part for anyone else who has access to a 3D printer and wants to build it as well.

The design of the part was driven by the size and shape of my case (Silverstone DS380) - which is why the fan is offset and the overall profile of the mount is quite low. I have designed cutouts to insert M4 nuts (to take the M4 bolts that lock the mount onto the heatsink). To fit the nuts into place, simple screw the nuts onto a very end of a threaded bolt, heat with a lighter or candle (while holding the other end with pliers) and gently push the nut onto the part cutout. This forms a very nice snug fit. Then you just need to fit a 90mm fan to one end and bolt the other end onto the heatsink.

I've been really impressed with the results. Prior to fitting the adaptor, my CPU temps were 40oC at idle and 60oC under load (generated by transcoding a x265 HVEC file in emby). After fitting the fan these temps droped to 28oC and 41oC respectively (using exactly the same benchmarks).

Attached are some photos of the finished part and the STL file (in a zip) for printing.

Please don't ask me to print the part on someone else's behalf as I don't have the time or resources, but otherwise feel free to use it.

Cheers, Rich
Nice job,

I'm pretty satisfied with my own 3D printed brackets, but I'll give yours a try sometime.

Thanks for sharing this more universal solution.
 

colmconn

Contributor
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
174
The design of the part was driven by the size and shape of my case (Silverstone DS380) - which is why the fan is offset and the overall profile of the mount is quite low. I have designed cutouts to insert M4 nuts (to take the M4 bolts that lock the mount onto the heatsink). To fit the nuts into place, simple screw the nuts onto a very end of a threaded bolt, heat with a lighter or candle (while holding the other end with pliers) and gently push the nut onto the part cutout. This forms a very nice snug fit. Then you just need to fit a 90mm fan to one end and bolt the other end onto the heatsink.

I've got free access to a 3D printer at work and tried out the fan baffles described here. I installed them yesterday (along with a little duct tape the top and bottom to ensure that air goes over the drives) and can now finally close the door on my case without incinerating my drives. The downside is that my CPU is now running a little hotter at idle (5-10C than previously, 50C instead of 40C) and at about 70C when reslivering (I missed the SATA port on one drive yesterday prompting the resliver onto the spare). Now I'm thinking I might try this to better cool my CPU.

With that in mind I've got a few questions:
What plastic did you use in the printer?
How long were the M4 bolts that you used?
Did you installed the fan so that air was drawn over the heat sink and exhausted out the top of the fan?
 

rich110

Cadet
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
7
With that in mind I've got a few questions:
What plastic did you use in the printer?
How long were the M4 bolts that you used?
Did you installed the fan so that air was drawn over the heat sink and exhausted out the top of the fan?

hi colmconn, in answer to your questions...

1. The plastic I used was ABS
2. The M4 bolts I used were 10mm long. This was long enough (just by chance) that I could tighten them up completely without over-stressing the part. But you could have bolts as long as you want, just make sure that you only tighten them up enough to ensure a secure fit. The design of the motherboard is such that overhanging bolts will not be in the way of anything else.
3. Correct. The fan is drawing the air in from the open sides of the heat sink and upward away from the CPU. The rear case fan adjacent to the cooler is then drawing the warm CPU air out of the case.

I'd be interested to see how this works out for you.

Cheers, Rich
 

colmconn

Contributor
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
174
Rich, I printed a copy of your fan mount last week and mounted it yesterday. Unfortunately when reassembling my machine yesterday I forgot to take photos of the completed install. However, as is clear from the temp graph, the addition of the mount and fan (in my case a 92mm Noctua NF-B9 PWM) has made a significant difference to the CPU temperature. Thanks for making your design available.
 

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carleycr

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May 2, 2014
Messages
233
the big difference was that I mounted the NF-A6x25 directly to the heatsink.
I'm looking to do this also. I've had my board for almost 3 years now and just started seeing heat issues to the point that it started shutting down automatically. Near idle temps around 63C. It's a little of a coincidence that I just updated my bios and BMC to the latest version, along with FreeNAS to the latest stable build.

What did you use for tape? I'm worried the tape will melt on my heatsink with the temps I've been experiencing.

I tried turning my front 200MM fan and rear 120MM fan to full speed in the BIOS but it doesn't sound like they're increasing. Is there a way I can turn off the smart fan controller? Noise isn't an issue for me as it sits in an office.
 

Dulcow

Cadet
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
1
Hey guys,

I have 3D printed the fan shroud following the instructions in this thread and put a Noctua 92mm FAN on top. Before that, when I was transcoding with Plex, the CPU was climbing up to 96°c which was a bit alarming. Now, even with some heavy load, it stays around 75/80°c. I have set-up the fan to blow on the heat-sink (as we usually do with CPUs).

As I got started with DIY, I have also put a long cardboard piece (the whole length and about 7.5cm high) to channel the flow of the front fans into the HDD cage. They are now cooler but the motherboard sensors are now reporting higher temperatures (I guess that's the trade-off).

CPU_FAN1 | 1700.000 | RPM | ok | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
REAR_FAN1 | 1300.000 | RPM | ok | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
FRNT_FAN1 | 1300.000 | RPM | ok | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
FRNT_FAN2 | 1300.000 | RPM | ok | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
REAR_FAN2 | na | RPM | na | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
CPU_FAN2 | na | RPM | na | na | na | 100.000 | na | na | na
MB Temperature | 48.000 | degrees C | ok | na | na | na | na | na | 80.000
CPU Temperature | 40.000 | degrees C | ok | na | na | na | 80.000 | 85.000 | 90.000

/dev/sdb: WDC WD40EFRX-68WT0N0: 32°C
/dev/sdc: WDC WD40EFRX-68WT0N0: 31°C
/dev/sdd: WDC WD40EFRX-68WT0N0: 29°C
/dev/sde: WDC WD40EFRX-68WT0N0: 29°C
/dev/sdf: WDC WD40EFRX-68WT0N0: 28°C

Am I missing something here? The room temperature is around 22°c.

Cheers,

Dulcow
 

ryanakata

Explorer
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
63
I and some friends all jumped on the C2750D4I train before the problem was well known. I'm on my third board and on the latest version of Freenas and noticed temperature alarms in the log. I hop on over to the reporting tab and see this...

[CPU Temp of ~100C](https://imgur.com/Wm4DtaK)

I knew that this board suffers from a poor thermal pad on a passive heatsink due to some cruddy thermal tape in between the heatsink and cpu, so I decided to fix that as well as add a Noctua 92mm fan using a 3D printed file from rich110 on here.

Here's the album of the fix [HERE.](https://imgur.com/a/8aYa3)
 

ryanakata

Explorer
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
63
Just wanted to update that since I applied the shim and cooler that the CPU has not exceeded 32C a single time no matter how many transcodes are running which is absolutely mind blowing at the difference.
 

enjoywithme

Dabbler
Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
13
I also had this high cpu temperature problem with my 2750d4i motherboard. I noticed there is qualified vendor list of cooloer from asrock: http://www.asrockrack.com/support/supportlist.asp?cat=Cooler
AKASA: AK-CCE-7107 BS(ACTIVE)
COOLJAG: JYCOL28ATPG(2U PASSIVE)
COOLJAG: JYCOR29ATPG(1U PASSIVE)
COOLERMASTER: Hyper TX3-EVO(ACTIVE)
COOLERMASTER: ECC-01025-01-GP(ACTIVE)
DYNATRON: K1(1U PASSIVE)
EVERCOOL: UI01-9525EA(ACTIVE)

I have no 3d printer to make a customized one. Is it helpful to use a cooler in the list?
 

ryanakata

Explorer
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
63
I also had this high cpu temperature problem with my 2750d4i motherboard. I noticed there is qualified vendor list of cooloer from asrock: http://www.asrockrack.com/support/supportlist.asp?cat=Cooler
AKASA: AK-CCE-7107 BS(ACTIVE)
COOLJAG: JYCOL28ATPG(2U PASSIVE)
COOLJAG: JYCOR29ATPG(1U PASSIVE)
COOLERMASTER: Hyper TX3-EVO(ACTIVE)
COOLERMASTER: ECC-01025-01-GP(ACTIVE)
DYNATRON: K1(1U PASSIVE)
EVERCOOL: UI01-9525EA(ACTIVE)

I have no 3d printer to make a customized one. Is it helpful to use a cooler in the list?

Unfortunately I believe that is the list for socket 1150 boards and not the integrated CPU that we have. I would be willing to mail you a shroud and a couple of bolts if you live in the USA. I can provide a link for the fan you need to buy.

On mine I did have the fan blowing down to the CPU rather than drawing are up which I wish I would have.
 

enjoywithme

Dabbler
Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
13
Unfortunately I believe that is the list for socket 1150 boards and not the integrated CPU that we have. I would be willing to mail you a shroud and a couple of bolts if you live in the USA. I can provide a link for the fan you need to buy.

On mine I did have the fan blowing down to the CPU rather than drawing are up which I wish I would have.

Many thanks Ryanakata ... unfortunately I'm in China. I'll try to find 3d printer provider to make the shroud according to the STL model provided by Rich. Link for the fan is still appreciated. I need it to choose the fan which can be fixed appropriately.
 

rich110

Cadet
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
7
Many thanks Ryanakata ... unfortunately I'm in China. I'll try to find 3d printer provider to make the shroud according to the STL model provided by Rich. Link for the fan is still appreciated. I need it to choose the fan which can be fixed appropriately.

Shoot me a PM with your address, etc and I'll send you a shroud. Any 90mm computer fan should fit just fine.
Rich
 

mostlygeek

Cadet
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
9
I printed the rich110's shroud and it works great! Fits the M4 nut and bolt perfectly. I paired it with a noctua 92mm PWM FAN. I also have a node304 w/ 8 drives in it. 6xWD Red and 2xSSD. My install looks similar to ryanakata's album (https://imgur.com/a/8aYa3).

Before the shroud I had a rear 120mm noctua drawing air out of the case. It was plugged into the CPU1 fan header with SmartFan control set in the BIOS. This would effectively keep temperatures below 70degrees. When it gets that hot (transcoding) the rear fan gets pretty loud. After the install temperatures are on average 10C lower. Plus I never hear the fans spin up anymore. Excellent and pretty easy upgrade.

The noctua 92mm on the shroud draws air UP. So it would pull more air through the heat sink and then the rear fan draws it out.
 

Neorej

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Joined
Aug 28, 2018
Messages
2
Ordered the shroud via 3dhubs today, a lot of firsts for me. A great thanks to rich110 for sharing the STL! Would never even have thought about this upgrade otherwise.

@ryanakata: Why do you use a copper shim actually, instead of directly mounting heatsink on the CPU with some thermal paste? Would you remember shim size and where you bought it?
Also, any idea how much thermal paste I should order (will only be using it for this one)?
 
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ryanakata

Explorer
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
63
Ordered the shroud via 3dhubs today, a lot of firsts for me. A great thanks to rich110 for sharing the STL! Would never even have thought about this upgrade otherwise.

@ryanakata: Why do you use a copper shim actually, instead of directly mounting heatsink on the CPU with some thermal paste? Would you remember shim size and where you bought it?
Also, any idea how much thermal paste I should order (will only be using it for this one)?

Without a shim the heatsink will not touch the CPU. You need a tony amount, get the smallest tube you can find. Shims were tiny and on amazon for super cheap. I used 15mm x 15mm but you could go smaller.
 
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